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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.